Mate on the Rambla – Part 1: Sunset on the Promenade

The promenade in Montevideo stretched for miles along the river, a long grey ribbon of concrete and sunset. Sofi walked it with her hands in her pockets and her phone switched off, watching the locals pass with their thermoses tucked under their arms and their wooden gourds in their hands.

She had been in the city for two days, and she had not yet been invited to anything.

"Excuse me," said a voice. "You look like someone who has never had mate."

She turned. A man sat on the wall with his legs dangling over the water. He was lean and brown, with a loose white shirt, bare feet and a metal straw in a green gourd. He smiled at her as if they had known each other for years.

"I have not," said Sofi. "I am a tourist."

"Then you are in luck. I am Bruno. I am a professional mate-sharer." He patted the wall. "Sit."

She sat. He poured hot water into the gourd, handed it to her, and watched with great seriousness as she took the first sip.

It was bitter, grassy, strong. She coughed.

"That is normal," said Bruno. "Everyone coughs. The second sip is better."

The second sip was better. By the third she was smiling.

"The rules," said Bruno. "You drink all of it, then you hand it back. You never say thank you until you are finished, or it means you do not want any more."

"That is a very strange rule."

"It is a very good rule. It makes you pay attention."

They passed the gourd back and forth as the sun sank over the Río de la Plata, turning the water pink and gold. Families walked past with children and dogs. A man on a bicycle sold ice cream from a cart. A group of teenagers strummed a guitar on the steps.

"Is it always like this?" asked Sofi.

"Every evening," said Bruno. "Nobody is in a hurry. We sit, we drink, we watch."

"I could get used to it."

"I hope so." He passed her the gourd. "Can I ask you something?"

"Yes."

"Why did you come to Montevideo? Most tourists go to Buenos Aires."

Sofi looked at the water. "Because I wanted somewhere quiet," she said. "I have been working very hard for three years. I forgot what it is like to be in a place where nobody wants anything."

Bruno nodded slowly. "Then stay a while."

"I have a flight on Sunday."

"Then we have five evenings," said Bruno. "May I show you the city? Not the museums. The real places. Only if you want."

Sofi's heart gave a little skip. "Yes," she said. "But only if there is more mate."

"There is always more mate," said Bruno. "Green?"

"Green," said Sofi. "Very green. Pass the gourd, Bruno. I have not finished yet."